Sinai trip 15th – 23rd December 2002
The lead up
During the weekend before (14/15th December) the weather was very dark and gloomy, so very different to what I expected when I got to Eilat which was in the high 20s. I was highly anxious as I had been for the week or so previously. But felt strongly that I was on the right path, that going to climb Sinai was good and in accord with God’s will and that it would happen. All the arrangements had been made to get as far as Eilat so I just had to go with the flow which I had set in motion and that would be OK.
Turning back would just not be right any more than turning back as a ploughman, or Lot’s wife, would have been right. The way ahead was forward. This was reinforced by many people knowing what I’d planned and the practicalities of telling them all of any change of plan would have been hard. But it was not just that. Unlike previous trips there seemed to be a flow to it.
I was still bothered about catching a cold or getting breathing problems, especially when people kept telling me they had colds. But then I thought previously that if I was going to get a cold, better to have it in Israel and in a warm place than in England. The thought of spending a week at home was just as anxious making as coming here, even without the stresses of the previous week, such as going to Swansea for the viva.
Many things were happening almost without my planning them. The viva, the papers I was writing, the way I couldn’t actually submit the first one, the cards and presents sent off on Saturday, arrangements for get-together next Saturday for upsd, phoning Sandra and Alison and Angela on useful days. I seemed to be in a flow in which constructive things were happening – all added to the feeling that the Sinai trip was part of that flow.
Church on the Sunday morning – Andy preached on when Moses had asked to see God’s glory on the mountain and the “meaning of God’s name”. The afternoon was spent mainly just waiting until it was time to get the bus and coach to Heathrow. Still worrying about buses not turning up or the hotel reservation not being there or not being able to get to Heathrow in time and getting stranded somewhere. But the bus and coach were OK and, after going to the wrong bus stop for the hotel hoppa, and then when I got to the right one, waiting for about half an hour, I got to the hotel. Even then there was uncertainty because there are two Holiday Inns and I thought, knowing me, that I’d go to the wrong one. But I didn’t.
I set the alarm for 4am and ordered a taxi for 4:30. I woke before the alarm. In fact I woke several times during the night. The taxi was late but I still got to the terminal by 5am. The flight was smooth and uneventful. I saw the desert for the first time as we flew over the Negev to Ovda Airport. Quite a scene. Sandstone with the irrigated areas in various places. I had flown over the Greek islands with square shaped inlets.
Eilat
I was worried that the transfer bus wouldn’t be there or would go before I got through customs etc. Seems silly now but only after the fact. The transfer to the hotel happened with no problem. I was worried as we descended into Eilat that there would be dust which would give me breathing problems but that turned out to be unfounded. There was one other person staying at the same hotel, a woman travelling alone. We exchanged a few words as we went to our rooms. I wondered if we’d meet during the week or do anything together. I wondered if I should have suggested we got something to eat but felt that just saying “might see you around” was about the right level. Then I realized that, maybe unlike what would have been the case a year or less ago, I really would be OK being on my own. I was here for “me” and to climb the mountain not to meet people, even nice ladies. And realistically there was no reason to think that I’d enjoy her company. It was simply appearance which made me think that way at all.
I went to look for a supermarket or restaurant. I bought some salami and some Sabra then went back to my room and sampled it. Noisy night. A group of Israeli blokes were talking and shouting to each other most of the night up until 3am, then more at about 7.30am. I wished I’d brought my ear muffs. I managed to sleep a bit but it was very disturbed.
I had breakfast and went to the beach area and found a bench to sit and pray. It was very quiet but there were a lot of flies – definitely flies not mosquitoes – (more worry about being bitten and given some illness) – then I went to the welcome meeting at King Solomon. Wondered if Ms. 406 would be there and whether I’d be able, or actually want, to talk to her. Still aware of being less drawn to make contact with people, even women.
I asked about Sinai excursions (there was only a Saint Katherine trip on the list) and I was told that there was a Friday night trip from Taba but nothing during the day nor a two day one. I showed Simon the web thing and he said he would find out. I went back to my room to collect my camera, which I hadn’t taken with me on the way out, and set out towards the glass bottom boat place which looked like an interesting excursion.
A travelling companion
I was just past the King Solomon when I saw a woman holding a map, like the one Longwood had given out, walking ahead of me. I didn’t recognise her but thought she must be one of Longwoods clients. As I drew level she saw me and stopped and smiled. We started talking. She also had come with the main intention of climbing Sinai for no describable reason, just because she felt she wanted to do that. Very similar to my own reasons for being here. She would also prefer a daytime climb so I told her about the stuff I was trying to find out and said I’d tell her if I found out anything. Otherwise we would both be going on the Friday and could go to Taba together and share a taxi. We swapped names so I could call her. Then she went to look for trips to the snorkelling place and I went looking for more Sinai information.
Then I went on the glass bottom boat trip. It was a nice trip in perfect weather. Mainly Jewish families on the boat and it was interesting to see how they interacted. There were probably three generations all completely at ease with each other. I couldn’t imagine seeing a scene like that in England or even Europe. I saw the corals and the fish and also had a good view of the coastline. I went back to the hotel and then went to meet Simon to see if he had found out anything useful. He hadn’t. BTC are based in Jerusalem and Desert Eco depended on groups. He said he’d made more enquiries and let me know on Wednesday morning. I told him about Donna and he said she’d already booked the Friday trip.
I Went to “New York New York” restaurant next door to my hotel which turned out to be an “all you can eat” place for 60 shekels. I had a good three course meal and could have had more main course (!).
Trying to arrange the trip to Simai
On Wednesday I went towards the Mall HaYam and across to the town itself still with the rough aim of finding more trip information. I had been thinking that maybe it would be OK just to go to Saint Katherine, but I knew that that wasn’t good enough. I definitely wanted to climb the mountain and nothing less would do even if that meant doing it overnight. I still felt strongly that it was going to happen and it was part of the Lord’s plan which I was going along with. I didn’t find the new tourist ??? place and thought that I’d go either on Friday, or if Simon found out anything, I could go with that.
I went into the Mall HaYam to get some CDs. On the way round I saw a tourist booth so I asked about Sinai. She said it was possible – maybe Thursday, maybe Saturday. I said there would probably be two of us. She said there were two others so we could do it for $70.00 plus taxes. Would confirm between 6 and 6:30 that evening. I went back to my room to see if Simon had left a message which he did while I was there saying it would be “$300 if I wanted a two night thing”.
The other one seemed better so I thought I’d go with that. I went to the Dan Panorama to see if Donna happened to be there or otherwise to leave a message. I left a voicemail message telling her about the new possibility and asking her to let me know if she wanted to go with that. Then I went off to sit on the beach and read. I had decided to go on the kibbutz trip on Thursday so I was going to go to Longwoods at 4 when they opened and then check on whether there was any message from Donna.
I was watching the sun go down behind a cloud and it was about 4:30 before I thought I’d seen as much as I wanted to and set off to Longwood. As I was walking toward the Sport Hotel, Donna was walking the other way and looked towards me and smiled. I didn’t actually recognise her but I knew who she must be by her recognition of me. Strange. I’d been hoping to meet her again during the afternoon like we had the previous day by chance but even if I’d seen her I wouldn’t have realised it. Again I had the feeling that I was in God’s flow and if I was to see her in time to confirm stuff, then it would happen. If not, then it wouldn’t matter. I’d done all I needed to do and I could wait for the next step. There were things I could do and there were things I couldn’t do. All I needed to bother about were things I could and should do.
She had received my message then told me that she’d booked the other one and was not sure whether to stick with what she had or to swap over. So I suggested she came with me to see Valerie to get the information direct. I checked whether she could still cancel and they said that was OK until 7.00. There was about an hour to go so I suggested we went to the Mall and have a coffee while we waited. We had a good chat and then went to see Valerie and decide. Donna decided to come on the Saturday trip so we both booked and it was confirmed. Then we rushed back to Longwood to cancel which she did.
In one way I was pleased, in another I was anxious (again!) because if anything went wrong I would be responsible for messing up her holiday and that will be much worse than just messing up mine. So having booked, we walked round to her hotel where I left her, saying see you at 6am on Saturday, unless we saw each other in the street before that. Then I suggested meeting up on Thursday or Friday evening. She preferred Friday and she would call when she was back from the snorkelling. I went back to my room and was feeling gobsmacked. Not only had the daytime climb been arranged but I had a companion for the trip which I had wanted but couldn’t think of anyone I’d be happy with. Donna’s reasons for being here and doing the climb was similar to mine even though she was more interested in Earth power and Ley Lines than in Moses and Elijah. It seemed ideal. I stayed gobsmacked with some red wine and celebratory Sabra.
Would the trip happen or would it not?
Thursday went to Yotvata kibbutz. I was shown round the farms with the veg. and experimental facilities then the dairy and the place where they all lived. it was a good trip and very interesting. I got back at about 3pm then went to read on the beach. I was getting a bit worried about the Sinai trip and what we needed for the border crossing and I decided to go to see Valerie next morning at the Mall to make sure we had all that was necessary. I was also a bit bothered about the timing and whether there would be time to do the climb but there had been no doubt that Valerie knew and had said that the climb had been included – all the references to seeing the sunrise etc. So I shrugged and put it down to my over-anxious nature. I settled down to drink some wine and eat some meat when the phone went and Valerie said the Germans had pulled out and therefore the trip was cancelled. I was completely floored. I told Valerie that I thought we could rely on her but all she said was “what could she do?”. Went off the phone thinking that was not only was I unlikely to do the climb myself but that I’d stopped Donna doing it as well. It felt that this birthday marker was going to be a confirmation that I only foul things up rather than an activity which would be special. I was thinking, “how can this be?” I was so sure this was going to happen because God was leading and setting things up, and now this.
There had to be a way forward. I phoned Donna and left a message giving the news and thinking we’d have to go back to the Longwoods one again but they’d shut and would only open on Friday morning which might be too late. I thought a bit more and wondered “what if I paid for three?” It would be expensive and I felt a bit cheated but I could afford it and it meant we could go anyway. I wanted to go and I couldn’t face the thought of spoiling Donna’s holiday especially as that was the reason she’d come to Eilat at all. So I rang Valerie and made sure that this was possible then left a second message with Donna saying we can still go. Then thought “okay, I’m going to have to pay far too much for this but I’ve acted honourably and the trip will happen and, in reality, the money is no big deal. After a while, I was a sort of at peace about it. Donna rang wasn’t happy about me paying so much, but when I said it was my choice because I wanted to go as well as feeling responsible for her cancelling Longwoods, she was OK to go along with it.
She said she’d prefer the daytime climb so I said, “well in that case will go along with this and not try Longwoods to see if they could still do the other one. So I called Valerie back and said that’s what we want to do. I was going to see her on Friday morning to pay the money and get it sorted.
I woke up in the night thinking of “rip off merchants” but prayed and felt OK about it again. I went off in the morning to Paradise Club to sort it out. Then I queried the border arrangements as I’d intended originally – also to triple check the itinerary. It turned out that they hadn’t intended to climb at all and that this would be a “completely different trip” which was “not recommended” but would be possible with an extra $30.00. I was annoyed by this and was wondering if it would be possible to switch back to Longwood but it seemed too late and would hassle Donna even more. I did try to phone although I wasn’t sure why, but fortunately was given the wrong room so I left that and agreed to pay the extra.
More mix-up over the arrangements
I went to the beach but was extremely anxious. I couldn’t concentrate even enough to read a book. I was worried how many other “surprises” were in store. Even whether we might get stranded in Saint Katherine’s or somewhere. I went back to my room to have a drink and found a message flashing on the phone. It could only be Valerie, or maybe Donna but Donna was due to be at Coral Beach. I wondered whether to ignore it because I thought it could only be bad news. I poured a drink and then thought I really had to answer it, so I did. It turned out to be good news. Another guy had wanted to come so I could get $70.00 back which I immediately did before she changed her mind and felt much better – not just because I wasn’t being charged so much but because there was another person who would make it more difficult for them to spring any more “surprises”.
I went back to the beach feeling much happier to wait until it was time to meet Donna at 5pm. I met Donna and the first thing she said was “Are we still going tomorrow?” so I said “yes” and explained the new situation. She was unhappy about the way we had been treated, as I was, but she was unhappy with them, not with me, which actually surprised me.
She was very tired. We got some shawarma and chatted, then Jay, who she’d met at the snorkel place, joined us. We chatted about all sorts of stuff including religious stuff and Kabbalah, ley lines, the story of Elijah etc. Jay didn’t know that it was at Mount Sinai where the 10 commandments had been given! Then Jay left and Donna and I walked back to our hotels and said see you at 6am! I got back still anxious about how it would all work out. I went to bed early with the alarm set for 5am. Very like the feelings at Heathrow worrying that all the arrangements would be OK. I was waking up each hour only half trusting the alarm clock. I left at about 5:40 after making sure I had got all the clothes I had and then left for the Dan. I waited for Donna who appeared at 5:55 seeming tired and nervous but okay. The car picked us up and all the arrangements were as planned. Albert was already in the car. I felt a lot better about it from then as many uncertainties had gone as they should so hopefully the rest will be OK as well.
Across the border to Egypt
All OK across the border and meeting the Egyptian guide. The jeep gave us a rough ride and I hoped all would be okay – which it was. We stopped at a “Chinese” restaurant place where we ate our own breakfast. Donna had been given a huge breakfast box which she shared with me. Then onwards, passing some tethered camels, along the coast and then up into the mountains. In quite a few places the road was very cracked and eroded due to flash floods. No Irish bridges! Driving through them was like a landing in an aircraft.
Eventually we reached a ridge where the scenery changed abruptly. There was much more limestone which had been carved by weather with hollows in it. There were lots of colours: green with copper, red with iron etc. We stopped at a place where some Bedouin were selling trinkets. It was very cold, much colder than I expected and I had to put on extra layers. We got back in the jeep and then on to Saint Katherine’s. We got out there and went up the track towards the monastery. It was very cold! I was shivering even with all the layers and a cagoule on.
St. Katherine
We were shown round the public parts of the monastery including the bone house with piles of skills and then the church which was quite small with lots of icons and oil lamps. There was also a sliding bit in the roof to let in daylight or star light. and a big mosaic of the transfiguration on the back wall. Then we were shown the so called “burning bush” which could have been anything. Then a well which “could’ve been the well which was” the one Moses used when he met Jethro. I wish they wouldn’t do things like that because it gives the impression that the whole thing is superstition and myth. Strong feeling, even as I write this, of how much greater God of Sinai is than any geographical location or any part of creation or any miracle which he performs. Sinai points to God but is no more than a pointer. The fact that the pointer is so great a thing says great things about the one pointed to. Hallelujah!
Albert went into the museum with Rede while Donna and I went out and said we would meet them outside. Donna had said “at the shops”. She had meant the shops by the van. I thought she meant the shops by the monastery. The guide thought something different. At the time we ‘d arranged to meet, we looked around at the entrance and couldn’t find any trace of them. we thought going back to the van would be a good idea to see who was there but we couldn’t see the van and it was not where it had been. At that stage we started getting worried and wondering where they could have gone.
Losing our guide
While we were waiting, Donna went into the shops and bought some stone egg shaped things and a couple of crystals all for 15 shekels. The kid selling them gave her another one as it seemed she had offered too much. Not what I expected from Arabs! They were keen to sell us stones and camel rides which made walking around looking for the tour guide quite a bit tricky. The monastery was closing so there were only a few people around and most of the vans had gone. We did one more look for our van and found it in a different place to where it had dropped us off. I felt better for that as I was worried about getting stranded in Saint Katherine’s and how we could get out. It seemed like climbing the mountain might not even happen so it was back to where I was, thinking “why have we got this far just to be stopped at the end”. Still I knew that God was in control but found it hard not to worry anyway. Donna was also worried and said she “didn’t feel so adventurous now” (she had previously said that the night trip might have been better because it was more adventurous). We decided to have another look up at the monastery as we couldn’t see any sign of anyone at the car park area and noticed that there were two ways between the two so it was possible to miss people. We got to the top and found nobody.
On the way up somebody else offered to guide us. I was tempted enough to ask how much but Donna said she wouldn’t want to do it that way and that made sense anyway. We had a look along the track in a vague attempt to see if we could get there ourselves. But it became clear that wouldn’t be possible. We went back to the monastery looking around – still nobody. I was beginning to think that there was no way we’d get up the mountain and the best we could do was go to the van and wait for somebody to come back. At least that way we knew we would get home. Donna was equally frustrated and said “I really don’t know what the fuck we do now”. I suggested going back to the van as being the safest option and seeing who turns up. We knew that Albert would be there. We got down and saw the driver was there, we went up to him and he had a mobile phone to the guide who said he was still at the monastery with the local bloke so we went up for the third time looking for them (one and a half hours lost!) and found them. Rede greeted me with a handshake, introduced us to Mohamed and then left us to go up the hill. Donna was keen to get going and so was I. I was relieved that after all the uncertainty we were really on our way. It wasn’t so cold by that time and because we were climbing I took my cagoule off. Donna did similarly and I put her sweater in my rucksack to carry it for her.
The climb
The climb was mildly steep for most of the way – no problem at all, although Donna seemed to find it hard going and we stopped from time to time to get a breather and admire the view. Saint Katherine’s was at the bottom and as we climbed we could look down on it. It reminded me of Llanthony priory in configuration, but apart from that there was nothing in common. I thought the peak we were heading for was the one right ahead with a white structure on top. In fact it was another one which was much higher and further round. Nice path with good views of the surrounding mountains, including a wide valley with what appeared to be a river flowing through but which was more likely to be a road or a salt deposit from floods. After a while we came to a tea shop but they didn’t take sheckles so we didn’t indulge. Mohamed chatted with him. A bit higher up we came to another one where we stopped and drank a glass of peppermint tea.
We got a photo taken by the tea shop owner with and without Mohammed, not sure. He insisted on getting into all the photos. I didn’t particularly want him to do that. Onwards and upwards and “yella”. We were overtaken by a few other groups including one whose guide knew Mohammed so they were chatting while they were leading us. Some camels being led also went past in the downward direction. Eventually and slowly we climbed and got to the steps. They weren’t regular like a staircase but they were quite steep and took us up a sort of alcove into the side of the mountain. The peak itself looked like the side of a castle with vertical sides and castellated top. The steps were OK taken in small pieces. Donna’s pace was slower than mine so we stopped every so often so we could both get a breather. To my surprise she got out of breath quicker than I did.
Then the final push to the top. We could see the building about 30 foot higher but it was like a staircase. Donna was really keen to get to the top but we still had to take it a few steps at a time. I was trying to be encouraging by saying “take it gently” and that “those who travel slowly travel far” and things like that. Soon we got to the top with great relief and satisfaction. We sat on a rock and admired the view. Mohamed went to a tea shop and left us for 15-20 minutes. I took a few photos. The all round view was good, very much as I’d imagined it would be. A sandstone equivalent of the Welsh mountains with green and brown bits. One of the mountains was almost completely green – quite amazing. It was very cold even with many layers and a cagoule and there were quite a few people around. I would have liked to pray and/or meditate up there but there wasn’t really the atmosphere for it. I was quite happy to come down after 15 minutes or so.
I looked across at the cracked and craggy sandstone and tried to picture Moses as the glory of God passed by. I couldn’t really do it though. Donna took a picture of me with my arms spread in an awestruck sort of away – will be interesting to see if it comes out OK. I took a final view to finish off the film and then Mohammed came back and we set off down the hill. As we did there was a group of Nigerians on the way up. They were all struggling and as we got lower they were struggling more. It seemed unlikely that some of them would make it. It seems such a shame to get so close and then not to get to the top. The views were good as we descended. The light started getting less and before we got into sight of Saint Katherine it had got dark.
Yerushalaim shel zahav
The colours of the rocks reminded me of “Jerusalem of gold”. Donna and I started singing the chorus. I wish I could have sung in tune! The descent took about half the time of the ascent. The lower bit was in darkness and it was hard to see Mohammed ahead of us. Near the end he said “Mohammed good guide” and I said “yes” and he gave me a hug. Strange guy. He was always keen on grasping Donna by the shoulders and it seems he’s just very into physical contact. Maybe that is standard Bedouin. Onwards and downwards. We went past the monastery which was almost unrecognisable in the dark and to the car park where we were greeted with a “welcome back” by Rede.